Lake Arenal, A Spewing Volcano and an Angry Howler Monkey
Nov 17 '00
By Anna Bryant

Review taken in it's entirety from:

http://www.epinions.com/trvl-review-3238-178FEDA5-3A157AF4-prod2

"It has been repeatedly suggested that I chronicle my travels in this world. Giving in, I've decided that I'll start with the most wonderful country in Central America, Costa Rica.

My favorite traveling companion and fellow adventurer, Christine, and I couldn't decide where to go next. Our decision was finally made by closing our eyes and sticking a pin in a global map between two limiting latitude lines (ensuring we would have warm weather, of course). Costa Rica is what it turned out to be and off we went. Since it was the very end of the tourist season, with the potential for an early start in the rainy season, accommodations were easy to come by. Be warned, however, that March is still in the "high priced" season for them as they close off the tourist season.

Our plan took us to several locations in the country, from coast to coast and north to south, but this review focuses on our incredible experiences in the central region, near Volcan Arenal.

Volcan Arenal

The volcano, before you get too comfortable, is an incredibly active one. It belches, smokes and spews on a daily basis. During our visit, it hurled a boulder the size of a house right out the top, which shook the ground as it landed and rolled down the opposing side.

While this sounds incredibly dangerous and visitors foolhardy, the volcano is also very regular in it's bad behavior. The way in which it is situated, both externally and it's internal workings, makes the majority of large debris go down a regular direction, which is conveniently not oriented towards the visitors.

This giant of a volcano is situated in the northern part of the country, not far from the Nicaraguan border (perhaps 40 km). It is slightly more to the Pacific side of the country, but it's appearance is that of the central region quite firmly.

Villa DeCary

Being adventurers, we normally shun the established route to anywhere. This is so central to the experience of being in Arenal it is worth taking some time on this. Hence, instead of staying in the little city near Arenal, we chose to stay on the other side of the lake. Villa Decary, (which can be found at http://villadecary.com), is a bed and breakfast to surpass all others. Located about 14 miles from Volcan Arenal, it is snuggled in the slopes of the rainforest. The height at which it lies means incredible views of both the Lake and the Volcano day and night. The rumblings of the volcano are muted enough to lull you to sleep each night by the fiery orange glow that emanates from it.

Villa DeCary isn't really just a B&B, but is a full country inn. We stayed in Casita Zombia, one of the 3 bungalows separate from the establishment. This had the full kitchen, privacy, hot water and a veranda to enjoy the sites from. Incredibly comfortable, it was also scrupulously clean, without a flaw to be reported in any regard. The whole inn is built on an old coffee plantation and the plants can be found still growing wild in between the abundant green surrounding it.

Howler monkeys abound along with an incredible array of exotic birds, butterflies and more. The food is amazing there and prepared by the proprietors, Bill and Jeff. Both of these fellows aren't just running a business, and you will never feel like a just another reservation. They are hosts and you are their honored guests. Their ability to create an atmosphere that relaxes while it stimulates is unsurpassed in all my travels.

If you're on a lesser budget, you can stay in one of the rooms within the Villa, which are equally wonderful. If you have a party of 3 or more, or you are willing to spend a bit more, stay in one of the bungalows.

But why is this important? Because of the Volcano, of course! Being 14 miles from the Volcano gives you a much better perspective of it and doesn't exclude the lake, which is amazing. In Fortuna, there are simply too many other people. You really feel like a tourist there. Ditto for some of the more famous of the resorts around the volcano. They offer nothing more than DeCary does really, but are run more like a business instead of a true guest facility.

In addition to that advantage, there is the wildlife advantage. Because of the secluded nature of this stretch, the animals haven't been scared away by endless crowds. We saw more animal life there than we saw in the rest of Costa Rica combined. If you're a nature lover, then this is reason enough.

The Volcano and Hot Springs

After enjoying the wonderful hospitality of Bill and Jeff, we roused ourselves for a day at the Volcano and Tabacan Hot Springs. I warn you now, the roads are both bad and unpredictable in that part of Costa Rica. Our road to 'town' was nothing more than boulders flattened into a relatively flat stretch of ground. It takes a great deal of time to navigate it if you don't have a 4 wheel drive and is tooth rattling even if you do. Get a 4 wheel drive if you plan on visiting this area."

[Editors Note: The roads have been greatly improved since Anna's visit to Villa Decary!]

"Pulling up to the Volcano facilities, there are observation posts, picture taking spots and all sorts of information and guest service facilities. It is a rather famous spot and is accorded such treatment. We got to see, up close, the source of all that spewing and light, and feel the rumbles run right through our bodies. It is both majestic and frightening. In a sense, you'll feel as if you stepped back in time, when the world was young and cranky.

However, you'll soon be drawn to the Hot Springs, where you can enjoy the fruits of this angry behemoth. The Hot Springs, which have a very reasonable entrance fee, are creating with streams heated by the super-hot volcano. As it is channeled through the facility, it enters and leaves a variety of pools, waterfalls and a slide. At each stop it becomes cooler, going from so hot-you-can-barely-stand-it, to a pleasant air temperature at the end. In the coolest of the pools the water is mixed with water from a non-heated natural source, providing the ultimate in refreshment at the end of the day.

Some highlights of my visit are in order so that I can further tempt you to this exquisite location. One of the hottest spots in the springs is the waterfall. It isn't a big one and is created by diverting the water over a large flat ledge of rock. You can easily stand in a little cave behind it, with a little maneuvering that is, and lean your upper body out under the water. It comes with such force that it feels like dozens of very hot fists massaging the muscles of your neck and shoulders. It is...::sigh::..an unforgettable feeling and you can lose 10 years of stress in a matter of minutes. Those of us who managed to climb up there, from young to old, stood in a widely separated row with the most idiotically blissful smiles on our faces.

The other of my favorites is the slide. In a large, traditionally built, pool filled with hot water that has traveled enough to become less than steaming hot, there is a water slide. The water is tinged green with the minerals of the water, but is tingly and relaxing. This slide is a blast and I have no shame in being a 30+ year old woman screaming down a water slide.

Some people feel a bit itchy after the hot springs. This is due to the mineral content, which is healthy and rejuvenating, but a bit annoying when it dries. Be sure to rinse off before you leave in the fresh water. Also, don't take your best sunglasses. The mineral content will leave spots on the lenses that doesn't come out of many lense types once it dries. And yes, you do have drink service there. Wonderfully attentive waiters make the rounds and professionally deliver your hearts content to you. Let me recommend one of the local beers to you. They are a perfect counterpart to the hot water.

Lake Arenal

The lake, which was created a few million years ago by the explosive tectonic activity in the region, harbored only a small body of water until 1973. At that time it will filled by the Electricity Bureau and has become famous for watersports and fishing. At the bottom of the lake there are several archaeological sites where ancient natives settlements rest at the bottom.

While I was there, I collected several water samples for study. Examining them, I found that the lake is a natural bounty with limited microbial species of benign origin. What this means is that it is the perfect location for waterplay and sports and the fish should be perfectly safe to consume.

But what about the angry Howler monkey?

Let me close my review of this most excellent location with a story. Staying at the Villa DeCary, we saw lots of Howler monkeys. While I don't claim to know the scoop on Howler lifestyles, I do know what I saw. One night we were awakened by a Howler...very close by. Peeking out the window of the bedroom, I saw a howler not 10 feet from the bungalow. Getting my friend out of her room, we watched the little monkey make all kinds of racket for a couple of minutes. He was calling in agitation and then waiting for a response from the jungle beyond. He wasn't getting the response he wanted apparently, because he was banging his little fists on the ground. Feeling like having some fun, I crept out of the bungalow and sneaked up the side toward the howler. Either I was very quiet or he was very much into his display, because he didn't hear me coming. About 10 feet from him, I stopped, raised my arms up like he had been doing, and softly made a repeat of his call (to the best of my ability). I have never seen such a look! He whirled around, threw up his arms, opened up wide his mouth and, I swear, stood every hair on his body on end. It was hilarious! He scampered off to the edge of the jungle, but I could still see him peering at our bungalow until we finally settled down to bed again.

Maybe that wasn't very nice, but I don't think he was too put out by it. We saw them, the whole group, many more times over the rest of our stay. If anything, perhaps the group liked me stopping his tantrum.

I hope you enjoy your stay in beautiful Costa Rica. Until next time...travel safe!"